Problem Laser 8000 Bluetooth Mouse

Subject: Problem Laser 8000 Bluetooth Mouse

Message: When the mouse is put on the charge pad its green light pulses 8
times slowly. Then a red light flashes continuously and rapidly. The
mouse's NIMH battery does not charge except for a few minutes of use. Even
when the mouse is left on the pad overnight. This problem started early in
August when a Vista update included a prompt to update the mouse driver
software with a download from Microsoft. The Microsoft download was run
and stopped itself with a note that the driver was not compatible. Thatt
is when the mouse stopped charging properly.

Then late August another Vista prompt to download the updated driver for
the mouse, and this time the driver installed. However, the mouse
continues to fail to charge except for less than a minute when it is first
placed on the charge pad.

The mouse battery charge anly lasts a very short while. If I take a half
hour to reseat the mouse on the pad every time the rapid red blinking
occurs, I can slowly build up the charge. The slow green pulsing lasts
about 30 seconds, so in half an hour the mouse is reseated on the charger
pad 60 times.

Microsoft can direct me to a safe driver update, please. That would be
greatly appreciated. It would be really appropriate if Microsoft would
correct the error in its driver update for the Laser 8000 mouse (date of
manufature, 2007).

Mark Stewart, August, September, October 2007

forgive me, but if i understand correctly you need the driver to charge the
mouse, couldn't it be that the battery is not holding it's charge, or a
problem with the battery, or is it really the driver not telling the mouse
to charge?

I have the latest software - Intellipoint 6.2 and the same mouse and mine
charges OK. You have a dead battery on your hands....replace it.

The rechargeable battery is dead ... buy a new one... or ask for a
replacement... there is no software problem... Intellipoint only warns you to
recharge it has nothing to do with the recharging itself.

i hope mark is reading this, my guess is the battery given to him might be
defectuous if it's brand new or he had it for a long time, and didn't let
his battery die before charging it. this is the worst thing to do to a
rechargable battery charge it before it goes dead, what happens is that the
battery remembers at what point it was charged and take the energy left and
says to it self when i get to this point i need to get charged, so what
happen is next time you use your battery when it gets to that point it'll
send a dead battery signal when you really had 15 min left of use for
example. and over time the battery doesn't work properly anymore and stops
working. now this doesn't happen after the first time you charged your
battery earlier but with time. the trick is once a month let the battery die
completly until the device stops running then charge the battery fully, even
when the signal says battery full, it is only 80% full, let on charger at
least 2 hours for the remaining 20%.

ps this is research information, not something i made up. and applies to all
rechargable batteries

Honestly, whoever you are, drivers don't charge mice. As it happens I have
spent over $20 purchasing batteries, just in case there was a problem with
the battery manufacture. I can absolutely affirm that the faulty manufacture
came from Microsoft: either the mouse driver is faulty, or by some bizarre
fluke the new mouse hardware broke at the very instantr that a Microsoft
driver updated Vista.

Peter,
You must not have read everything I posted.
Fortunately, I comprehend how to change a battery better than you comprehend
plain text.

All three of you read this carefully.
The original battery is ancient history and three new NIMH batteries have
dome their best to make the mouse work again.
Something in a Vista update slipped malicious code into the mouse through
it's bluetooth port. This is 'extremely' a well understood exploit - 15
minute blurb on it on the news last week. The mouse is messed up pretty bad.
No more battery talk.
Does any tech have any idea how to do a really effective (and safe)
low-level hardware reset of Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000?

[Mark]

You know what I would really like, So...?
A radio sheild so that strangers cannot access and interfere with all my
wireless household equipment, including strangers on the street, my
neighbours, and malicious or mistaken people on the internet. This sheild
would protect my home theater (hit twice so far this year by the jerk teens
across the alley), my telephones (3 of them), my home security (you really
don't want to know), ... and my MOUSE!

humm any of your devices are secure? your post is making me guess it's not
if you have wireless internet you have to set a password for it other wise
anyone can access your system possibly implement a virus. as for the
bluetooth, unless it's a really cheap bluetooth i don't think anyone
could've taken control of your mouse because usually you have to enter a
password for bluetooth, and you would have to press the connect button at
the same time they try to control it. if you have wireless telephone again
it is possible to get encrypted wireless phone, i for one have one it has a
voicemail box three portable wireless phone and if i remember correctly the
frequency changes three times per second, so no one could listen your
conversation, or take control of it. i hope this helps if you need more info
i'll be glad to provide it to you if i can. i didn't mean to make you
irritated or mad about the battery but i was kinda doing a small
announcement because not everyone knows this. i have some friends who still
believes that charging your battery every day like a cell phone is good for
it. but anyway...... hope this helps

unless someone can explain this to me as to why it is possible, i fail to
believe or think a driver could act as a virus by infecting a device in this
manner. it is completly going against what a driver is, the encyclopidia
tells us the definition of a driver:

A device driver simplifies programming by acting as a translator between a
device and the applications or operating systems that use it. The
higher-level code can be written independently of whatever specific hardware
device it may control. Every version of a device, such as a printer,
requires its own specialized commands. In contrast, most applications access
devices (such as sending a file to a printer) by using high-level, generic
commands, such as PRINTLN. The driver accepts these generic statements and
converts them into the low-level commands required by the device.

so my guess is that the problem occured at the same time of the update but i
don't think the driver is at falt, especially if you uninstalled it or
rolled back and no changes were seen, but since i've never seen this before
i could be wrong.

Nothing to do with drivers as the current drivers are fine. Assuming you
followed Microft's instructions for connecting your mouse, you've obviously
got a bad product that is faulty or your charging station is faulty/has a
loose connection. As far as I know these mice are covered by a 1 year
warranty. Why aren't you just returning the whole shebang to wherever you
got it from?

Thank you for your assistance.
I found out how to reset the laser 8000 mouse.
Note that the mouse recharge was disabled by a Vista64 update or an update
hack.
That disabled behavior was well described in the Windows forum.
The solution was to press in the mouse reset switch for about 15 seconds and
then immediately press for 5 seconds and again for 5 seconds (3 pushes).
Then when the mouse is placed on the charge pad it blinks green-red pause
green-red and so on.
Then take the mouse off the pad and press the reset for five seconds.
Finally, place the mouse on the pad and let it recharge.
When the mouse light is solid green, not pulsing, take it off the pad.
You will notice that the mouse is still not working.
Keyboard also is frozen, and you cannot use your operating system.
Manually reset the computer with a reboot, and restart Windows in Normal mode.
When Vista64 restarts, the mouse is still not going to work.
Another 5 second press of the mouse reset.
Place it on the charge pad for 5 seconds to initiate an amplified signal
burst.
Remove the mouse from the pad and leave it on the desk top.
Now locate the bluetooth transceiver in its USB port.
Do not unplug the transceiver.
Press the bluetooth transceiver's reset button for 5 seconds until it's
green light is rapidly blinking.
Let go of the reset and the transceiver will immediately stop blinking and
emit a steady green glow.
This steady glow means that the mouse has been located by the operating
system.
A dialog with a progress bar will announce the configuration of the
bluetooth device to transact with the mouse for the operating system.
After the configuration completes the mouse is repaired and ready to use.

Samoila, all I needed was the reset press sequence, or as it is usually
named, the 'base manual hardware reset sequence'. Would have saved me months
of dire annoyance. Why is this info not shipped with the product, published
online in a very noticable and easily accessed page, and provided to
customers having any related problem? Well, never mind the obvious cynical
retort. I am really serious about what I said concerning the need for a
computer-based sheild against remote intrusion. I know some home alarms
feature that now. What hardware can I buy to protect my system from criminal
intrusion?

Mark I've been having major trouble with it and the Entertainment Keyboard
8000 and I'm glad you found out a solution. You are right, Microsoft's
documentation is sadly lacking on this product.
Support is even worse.

Peter, let me know if the mouse reset works on your system.
Being an independent manufature, the keyboard my not relay the same way.
Suggest that you try and trace the actual hardware manufacturer and send
them an email asking assistance.
Additionally, there may be any number of reset proceedures for a
manufacture, depending on the particular problem.
Microsoft, I suspect, does not provide support because they want you to
purchase another one of their products.
My well-supported high-end logitech actually way WAY outperforms my high end
Microsoft mouse on every platform but Windows where it is a dud.
One can only wonder where the next anti-trust suit slides into place.
You're right.
Microsoft product support sucks real bad.
Unless you happen to have a corp support package
(and do databases).
Microsoft, while it claims to be a "home-networked" company,
is fast becoming an exclusive corporate network tool.
Going the way of Honeywell, I suspect.
Ah well... i'm just a humble graphic specialist.
Time to retool for Mac yet?