Arctic Cooling MX-3 thermal paste

[Yogisa]

Recently I purchased an Arctic Cooling MX-3 thermal paste and I am going to apply it on my GTX 480 chip switching the stock one. Please give your recommendation from you for mounting or dismounting a GTX 480? Has any of you opened a 480 and/or changed the paste? I am curious to see the gains from this, so I will keep this topic updated with routine results after the adjustment.

[Yitzchak909]

I distorted the thermal paste with my gtx470 MX3 and I low temperatures about 5 degrees. You think I have in mind is that the MX3 is not the best pasta I've seen the spread just put the refrigerator on top of it. 470/480 coolers also have DHPT (Direct Touch Heat Pipe) so you'll have to take into account the space between each heat pipe took plenty of thermal paste. For best results it is necessary to spread the paste on the chip everything by hand with some credit cards or flat plastic that (not sharp) plastic instrument you have, personally, I was using back of spoon plastic.

[pddaugusto]

The funny thing is that every time I returned a video card overheating or defective to the store first thing we have done is replace the pasta. I've even seen them put the washer in the wrong color and I have yet had a copy of the new card. If removing the heatsink voids the warranty has to be dependent on the location, or manufacturers simply do not care about people replacing the thermal paste.

[Howitzer]

In a sink DHT is essential so. If he does a lot of dough to be there when you put the heatsink on the then missing an else. Only if gaps that the rest of the paste can be spread evenly and give a good layer, the same throughout the heat sink. Yes, normally that should work. I used an old credit card to spread the last holes. As soon as they continue to apply the paste to the GPU as you normally do. The heatpipes that need your application to the GPU, but the differences in the heat sink must be filled before then.

[samar69]

Yes, I can try some online methods such as outreach, dissemination of X, the fall of pea and when I connect the heat sink and then remove it again to see the ripple effect was horrible, there were no major gaps to cause overheating of the GPU. That's the reason I think the manual spreading paste is the best way (IMO). That's why it's easier to fill the gaps first, then use a "typical" process as an X or a drop size of a pea and mount the heatsink.

[Mayur_Jain]

Unusually poster, when you have the sink will be clear that to complete.
Moreover, this has always worked for me, but do not assign different methods for applying TIM. I like:
-w / plastic bag in your fingers, spread a thin layer of paste on the GPU
-a decrease in the size of a pea paste in my experience is enough. You do not need rubber balloons.
-Put sink again with so little "wobble" as possible.

[MACuser]

All of the paste does is fill small gaps small and help try to "replicate" (for lack of a better term) a metal connection area perfect for metal surfaces. In a perfect scenario of connecting two metal heat sinks that do not need pasta. That would be perfectly flat, mirror finish. I am sure all this information will be enough for you to perform necessary steps for the same. For more information or instruction you can refer internet or watch videos on YouTube.