Overclocking graphics cards

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What is overclocking?

Overclock word is the union of two words: Over (on) and Clock (clock). Putting the word gives us "on watch." Not that the hardware has clocks, but the term "clock" refers to the frequency in Hz (Hertz) components. As expected, we are facing what would raise the frequency of a component on those provided by the manufacturer.

There are different ways to overclock, as well as components which do. The most common are: CPU, FSB or System Bus, Memory and Video Card. Each differently affects team performance in different aspects. And overclocking hardware must know the "victim." Knowing who and what you're trying to mean a better final decision making process, from meaning the advantage of making software changes on-the-fly (a Windows program that makes real-time changes) or having to do by making BIOS and reboot your computer every time you make changes (usually more reliable.) Okay, that's just one example.

3 basic considerations overclock

1. Overclocking requires patience: Never be hasty, do not try to increase 3.8v 1000 MHz or apply at once because you could end up with one or more parts unusable. Anda increasing the values step by step and eventually you'll hit the most from your hardware. If you do not have time, evitate now, go to your favorite store and buy something better for double or triple the price of what you have.
2. The higher temperature implies Overclock: The hardware is like a light bulb. If you raise the voltage, frequency, temperature will go up proportionately, so it is necessary to have good cooling, unless you want your room scented with the smell of burning silicon.
3. Overclocking is not without risk: Overclock lose the guarantee on components that are not qualified for it, and nobody will return your hardware dead and burned for more than a lifetime warranty to exist.

A primary law in what is overclocking, it is not a science "correct." This means that can vary from the hardware you have and the results obtained, and no two processors have exactly the same limit. Along with the trick of Newbie, there's a luck factor. So avoid asking "How much do they get this?". The answer is one, and is trying to get as far as possible, nothing more.


Slightly reduces the voltage life

Another thing to note is to mention that the life span "of the components is affected in a mild voltage. Practically if your hardware has 10 years of life, with overclocking could be reduced to 8 or 9 years, but by then it will be obsolete and a replacement installed Or you're still with a 100Mhz Pentium? If you want to make sure your hardware will last the maximum that you can afford it, I do not recommend the practice to raise the voltage to reach more overclocking.


Knowing the video card

First we need to know your video card and how it works. For this example I will use my veteran GeForce FX 5200.

Note: For users of integrated video, the changes are made if the card BIOS allows, which are very few, since this type of overclock is for non-integrated video cards.


Video Card

First of all, the video card, as you said, a tall card, which has the connection to the monitor. This card is divided into 3 parts, GPU, memory and bandwidth. This is most important. It is the main actor in the video card and the more powerful may be capable of processing more polygons, textures, lighting and effects on the screen. Works under a specific frequency, and more often, it is possible more FPS per second. The memory card is measured in megabytes (MB). Is almost equal to the system RAM but with some differences. Strictly speaking, this is for the personal use of the GPU. Here are stored more texture, and is responsible for the quality of them. Not the same as playing with "high" quality to "low", as there is memory that is occupied by them.

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DDR and SDR, DDR stands for "Double Data Rate." Currently in marking all cards are DDR (some DDR2, other DDR3, etc.).. All those mean that DDR memory frequency will double. Older cards do not use DDR, but SDR.

For example, a memory that runs at 200MHz DDR 400Mhz would be total, however in some programs (such as ATI Tool) allows you to overclock the memory at its base value, not its final value (DDR). Be careful, because we can spend on the frequency if we are not careful, something to be discussed later. To better understand all the "caramels" reporting are at a base speed, all alike, no runs or so, and their velocities are "added" or "multiply." To make it easier, you can imagine that all memory is a toffee. Nanoseconds: Here we pause a bit. You can find out the maximum memory frequency can give us. This is possible by observing the Nanoseconds written reports. This is an optional step, but we will know the overclock theoretical limit and avoid "unnecessary", or whether we reach the ceiling and avoid frustration.

[LIST][*]To find the nanoseconds, we see the memories of the video card, and locate the latest registration numbers for them, sometimes removing the sink and cleaned up a bit. In these examples, both are DDR.

This report indicates that top is 5.0 nanoseconds.

This indicates that is 2.5 nanoseconds.
[*]Subsequent to locating the nanoseconds, is to make this simple math:

Nanosecond = 1000 ÷ FINAL FREQUENCY MHZ

For example, the first report: 1000 ÷ 5.0 = 200 MHz (400MHz DDR)

For example, the second memory: 1000 ÷ 2.5 = 400 MHz (800MHz DDR)

However, note that it is sometimes possible to move from theoretical overclock, given by the high-voltage Thin who receive the reports. For example, in the past there have been reports of 5ns for DDR 450Mhz or 500MHz DDR. Moreover, no one ensures stability and temperature within normal.

Bandwidth

The communication between the GPU and memory is determined by this factor. Currently the most common is to have 128 bits of bandwidth, however, may be more as time passes. This part of the card is responsible for the transfer of information (eg textures) to the GPU for processing and may be set as images on the monitor. It is also the limiting overclock a video card (bottleneck) section we will see later.

Brands, models, colors, flavors ...

As we can see, there are makes, models, sub models and so on. The core is to learn what is the model, what brand is and who makes the card (or who is the manufacturer). In the catalog we have different cards, different prices but with a common factor: they are ATI Radeon or NVIDIA GeForce.

Consider this example:

Manufacturer: Generally this is a sign of good luck or bad luck, good or bad bundle. When you know the news that a specific manufacturer is using "unlockable pipelines" for a brand, model and specific sub-model, gives the reason why a Sapphire is not the same as a ASUS, although other sections Seine same. Marca Currently there are two types of marks in markup: ATI Radeon and NVIDIA GeForce. Selecting our preferred brand or most appropriate version for the price, can be quite crucial, both to overclock to see his other benefits. Some prefer to NVIDIA for great drivers in Linux, while others prefer ATI for their performance in DirectX, etc ... Model: A basic that sometimes can not be very accurate, is "the more numbers you have, the better." Sometimes not very true because we can see a X1950GT and X1900XT beats it by far and in stock (default speed). Usually a high end card like the example, often have their velocities near the boundary. Sub-model: This is where more expert from loss is accomplished, for the simple reason that the manufacturers and the company (in this case ATI) gives for throwing multiple models to try to cover the entire spectrum of potential customers: GT, GTO, Gto2, XT, XTX, etc. However, manufacturer sometimes you'll get another sub-model (or you add another). For example, the case of the mythical Gto2 X800, which indicated (so that I knew) that was unlockable, or the XFX 7600GT XXX Edition, which means it comes factory overclocked. Memory: Here are the real "game "bobos". Usually noted by the exorbitant number of memory, which mostly ends up being the slowest. Only high-end cards often have higher 512MB RAM or higher, always justifying the high price. So now you know: NO MORE MEMORY MEANS MORE POWER. Also, tell us what memories you have (if only sometimes happens). Usually in order of fastest to slowest: GDDR4, GDDR3, GDDR2 and DDR. Having DDR3 (or GDDR3) does not mean that the frequency is "triples" as some will think.


Drivers

Download the latest stable as appropriate. No BETA.

If your video card not NVIDIA GeForce or ATI Radeon, recommend you go directly to the official website of the manufacturer, and place in the "Support" (Support) or "drivers" (drivers) the software.


Overclock Applications

In the case of ATI Radeon: The ultimate tool is ATI Tool

In the case of the NVIDIA GeForce: The ultimate tool is RivaTuner.

Already announced its version 2.0, allows you overclock on a wide range of GeForce cards, besides the usual bells and whistles that allow ultra retailers make the most of the VGA. It also allows the fan setting only if it is compatible with the card.

In both cases, as NVIDIA GeForce or ATI Radeon, and drivers can overclock without secondary programs, ie, enter the driver settings in the Control Panel and change the settings to taste. This will require unlock (Geforce Coolbits?) Or get a compatible card and latest drivers. You can also try changing the tools if you wish. For example I used in this guide with a GeForce ATI Tool, which left nothing more to add negative 3 sticks overclock (2D, low power and performance). It is quite possible that newer cards appear only 1. There are other programs to overclock, but these are the most famous and recurring. But sometimes it is better to use the program that best fits your needs. If you overclock a GeForce 7300GT to ATI Tool, there is nothing wrong.

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Checking Temperature

In the case of ATI Tool, has a temperature gauge in the same program, which is quite useful. However, in the case of RivaTuner, draw it (or at least not found) And we have to see the temperature with another program. The ultimate tool is Lavalys Everest, which brings out the next T-second even the time like Ati tool.

They can also try other programs, however, is not very safe temperature is detected correctly or not fully displayed. Change program if it does not correctly detect the temp º. Currently the options panel of the drivers can display the current temperature, triggering a couple of options.

Note: In rare cases, especially in low-end cards or integrated, it is possible that the temperature did not show any program. This is because the video card does not bring any sensor installed, therefore, the temperature reading is zero. In this case you are authorized to use finger meters.


3DMark scores

To review how we score before and after overclock (or rather to see real profit) will need a program to verify the same. For that we use 3DMark, which is a popular program which measures the potential of a card.

You can choose any 3DMark, however, the ideal is to run the latest version only if so is your card. But here a small review that could help them to choose a version of "chord" to compare with other cards. Still, does not directly affect the score. If you wish, you can use 3D Mark 06 is the latest version that stresses the video card.

• 3DMark 2001 = GeForce 4 / Radeon 9250 down.
• 3DMark 03 = GeForce FX 5900 / Radeon 9800 down
• 3DMark 05 = GeForce 6800 / Radeon X850hacia down
• 3DMark 06 = 7950 or GeForce 8800 / Radeon X1950 or HD 2900 down.

More likely is that the GeForce 8000 or Radeon HD 2000 comes a new benchmark to test graphics DirectX 10, because not even the final 3DMark 06 supports DirectX 10, but DirectX 9.0c. Incidentally, it appears that to use DirectX 10 will still need an installed copy of Windows Vista.

To see if we have a profit, the ideal is that we run a pre-overclock 3DMark. Also so we can check bottleneck or any component fails us. First we run a 3DMark and not just anybody, but the 3DMark 2003 and it is one that weighs less and is sufficient to prove a GeForce FX. I would not say the same with a 8800, because in that case would use something else like 3DMark 06. In any case, you can try another version of 3DMark as 05 or 06 if you already have one.

1. Install 3D Mark. During the installation, click on "Purchase Later", unless licensed and original key, which you must enter right here.
   
   
   
2. We ran 3DMark. If we are of those who run 3DMark more than once a day, a good option not to show the "tips" at the beginning, however, is optional. I did. Then click the "Close"
   
   
   
3. Since there is much to do, and that is version "freeware" (without pay), click the "Run 3DMark" and new can look. The veterans sit and watch TV or drinking coffee.
   
   
   
4. After all the paraphernalia, a box with the score. Here is the sum of ...
   
   
   
5. We write the score, and then we go to what really matters to us.

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Now that we have everything ready, it's time to start our program, but before symbology:

Clocks, frequency = frequencies of the GPU or Memory, in Mhz (or even GHz)
Core, GPU, Core = We refer to the processor Video Card.
Memory, VRAM, Memory = We refer to the memory of the video card.
Overclock, Ocear, OC = Word to overclock.
Artifacts on the screen = Errors
the rare (tables without textures, polygons, folded, etc)
FPS = Frames per seconds, frames per second. The more the better. The idea is to overclock the 3D clocks and not 2D.

ATI Tool

Install and Ati Tool Run

The easy way is to press the button "Find Max Core" and then "Find Max Mem". The program will automatically search for the maximum MHz in the nucleus and then in the reports.

We only look, as the program detects errors in the image.

The hard way, but safer to find the maximum, is to raise the levels one by one, Shorter intervals up to 10 Mhz is good choice to find the maximum of the GPU and then the reports, which will take time. But not at 1000 MHz to 1000 MHz.

1. First enable the 3D view of the cube to see if what we're doing generates any profit, or artifacts.
   
   
   
2. Then, raise the core with the mouse (or, write in the top) is a good option.
   
   
   
   
   Every time we raise MHz, apply to "CLOCK SET" will have to find artifacts with the "SCAN FOR ARTIFACTS. If you see in the picture, then, is likely to find hardware maxed. Those with experience know when to apply this button all the time because it is a bit tedious. Nobody said it was a matter of minutes.
   
   
   
   
   When viewing artifacts, such an image will (over-speaking):
   
   
   
   
   While it is possible that the picture is not entirely out of yellow, they start to appear yellow triangles or squares in some areas and in the form of flickering. These are called artifacts. In games, you can also view and in different ways. You'll notice the graphics simply when it is grossly erroneous.
   
3. Then, when we find the maximum, go down (yes, I will go down) 10 Mhz. This is because we spent the ceiling. The "roof" of overclocking is when you reach the maximum Mhz without generating artifacts. Those with experience will come down to your taste.
   
   
   
4. Then we have the GPU overclocked to the max.
5. Do the same with the memories, for it to repeat step 1 and wala, card overclocked to the max.

NOTE: You may notice that your ATI Tool is different from this guide. This is because it does not display clocks for 3D applications and drivers (PERFORMANCE - not permanent) or hardware (LOW POWER - permanent). Do not worry, 3D overclock.

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RivaTuner

It may be a program not very useful in the sense of taste and test reliably, but has several tweaks and tricks for NVIDIA GeForce cards as well as overclocking.

1. First, install and run Rivatuner. You can see a screen like this that we expect to finish.
   
   
   
   Then press the OK button when finished.
   
   
   
2. Then enter the program. Appear on the top of the card information and options for her at the hardware level and below, information from drivers and driver options. Depending on what you have installed, you may see some options or not.
   
   
   
   
   We click on the triangle at the box drivers.
   
3. There will be several buttons, which we clicking the first, which gives us the general system options.
   
   
   
4. Go to "System Tweaks", and the first tab will be "overclocking". First of all we must enable overclocking options for drivers who are off for safety.
   
   
   
5. A box will appear asking you to restart your system for the detection of the original factory clocks correctly. Also disable any overclocking program (such as ATI Tool). Assuming that we have not done anything, and we are macho, click on "Detect Now".
   
   
   
6. After that, we can safely overclock. The first is to raise the levels one by one. Have patience sir! , Shorter intervals up to 10 Mhz is good choice to find the maximum of the GPU and then the reports, which will take time. but not at 1000 MHz to 1000 MHz. Upload the core to the mouse (drag to the right or by pressing the arrow) is a good option.
   
   
   
7. After getting the frequencies, proceed to "test" if the frequencies are stable.
   
   
   
   
   If the frequencies are stable according to the driver, then the button will disable only.
   
8. When frequencies are not stable, a box asking for lower taxes for the most stable. ATI Tool or something to warn, RivaTuner forced to lower them. In this case we are forced to download them and try again if they are stable. 10Mhz can usually sufficient, but depends on the hardware if less or not. In this case, I got 9.
   
   
   
   
   Then we put the "Test". Should go out alone, but if you get a box asking again lowered, so until we have stable clocks.
   
9. If we want the frequencies are applied every time after reboot, pressed the box and wala, automatically overclocked
   
   
   
10. Press OK to exit the section "Systems Tweaks"
11. Press OK and exit the program.

NOTE: If you are more than one occasion RivaTuner prompted reboot the system to make the appropriate changes. In this case, reboot. After seeing if our hardware is the maximum frequency, it was time to see what real gain we have, and what better than 3DMark.